Former Navy Underground HQ The Last Days Carved Underground.

30 Meters Below Naha -- Another Side of the Battle of Okinawa.

Beneath a small hill in Tomigusuku City, the Japanese Navy's wartime command bunker remains almost exactly as it was. Dug in 1944 by naval construction units using only pickaxes and hoes, the underground tunnels extend approximately 450 meters in total length. The commander's room, operations room, medical room, and cipher room are all connected by passageways, preserving the structure as it existed during the battle.

The moment you step inside, the air changes. Walking through the humid, low-ceilinged corridors, you feel the reality that thousands of soldiers lived in this space. Shrapnel marks from hand grenade suicides remain on the walls -- no guide's explanation is needed to understand what happened here.

Rear Admiral Minoru Ota, who met his end in this bunker, sent a telegram to the Vice Minister of the Navy just before taking his own life. In it, he pleaded on behalf of the Okinawan civilian population, asking that they receive special consideration from future generations. This telegram, in which a military commander advocated for civilians to his superiors, is one of the most important documents of the Battle of Okinawa. The full text is displayed in the museum, and reading it leaves you at a loss for words.

Passages inside the underground bunker. Pickaxe marks on the walls attest to the urgency of its construction.

What You'll See Inside the Bunker

Approximately 300 meters of tunnels are open to visitors. The commander's room shows traces of tatami mat flooring, clearly different in construction from other rooms. On the walls of the staff room, bullet marks from the final moments remain vivid, silently conveying that this was where lives ended. The medical room, where surgery was performed on wounded soldiers, now stands as an empty, silent space.

Emerging above ground, the area above the bunker has been maintained as "Navy Bunker Park," offering panoramic views of Naha city and the Kerama Islands from the observation deck. Knowing that people once watched the sea from this very spot during wartime changes how the scenery appears. The museum, located just before the bunker entrance, displays the original text of Admiral Ota's telegram and exhibits recreating life inside the bunker. Allow 60-90 minutes for both the museum and bunker tour.

The bunker entrance. Descend the stairs from ground level into the underground.

The commander's room where Rear Admiral Minoru Ota spent his final moments.

Getting to the Former Navy Underground HQ by Taxi

Just 10 minutes by car from Naha Airport. Only about 15 minutes from central Naha, making it easy to fit into arrival day or departure day free time. SUI TAXI often includes it as part of the Southern Peace Course (4-5 hours) from ¥24,800 combined with Himeyuri Tower and Peace Memorial Park, but short visits to the bunker alone are also available.

The bunker has many stairs and slippery floors, so please wear comfortable walking shoes. Even in summer the interior is cool, but prepare for heat above ground with water.

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